A quick overview on the stuck case problem. I lubed the case and neck with lube by RCBS on their lube pad, as I pushed the case up into the die and popped the primer out it got tight, as I tried to pull the case out of the die it pulled the rim off. After disassembling the die and a little hammer work, the stuck case was out, this is the point when I thought that I should post on the blog about the issue.
Reloading die information if your new to reloading or just looking for information.
Top is the bullet seating die, and bottom is the sizing die.
Maintenance is key for proper die use and operation, the bullet seating die doesn't get as dirty as the sizing die but still needs maintenance. The same solvents and lubes you use on your firearms can be used on your dies as well.
Being the first in line in the reloading process the sizing die is the dirtiest, it will need to be disassembled cleaned and inspected, I also like to lightly coat the decapping pin and walls of the die with a light oil. You will find slight amounts of grime along the walls of the die mainly near the neck and shoulder that will need to be cleaned, signs of this will be deformed necks or shoulders, scratches on case and tight cases in die. On the decapping pin build up can occur behind any tapers like the expander ball which is part of the neck sizing process, also you will find grim on the small pin that pushes the primer out of its pocket.
Bullet seating is the least dirty process, but as noted above still needs to be disassembled cleaned and inspected. Since most brass being reloaded has been sized, cleaned, polished, trimmed and chamfered, the brass is clean. Most issues in the bullet seating die are cause by dirt and dust from other sources and loose powder on the neck of the case from being filled. Mainly check around the walls of the die and around the bullet seating system, clean and lightly lube as noted above for the sizing die.
Cleaning can be as simple as running a solvent coated patch through the die body followed by a dry patch, I like to use a 410 shotgun brush with some solvent to get the walls clean, it also helps get into areas maybe a patch can't reach. Other cleaning processes used are sandblasting the outside of the die body, this helps with keeping the rust to a minimum when you reload in areas with high humidity. The newest thing to clean dies with are the Ultrasonic Cleaners, they use a warm liquid bath and high frequency pulses to release dirt and grime off parts. Most reloading component companies are now making ultrasonic cleaners for brass prep, and can also be iused on other items as well such as dies.
Want to watch a video about cleaning your dies: Here's A link to my YouTube video showing just that: Rex's Shooting and Reloading Blog Video on Die Cleaning
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog, this was just a general overview on the cleaning and maintenance of reloading dies, you will more than likely come across different style dies than shown above, which will have there own needs in regards to cleaning and maintenance.
Reloading die information if your new to reloading or just looking for information.
Top is the bullet seating die, and bottom is the sizing die.
Maintenance is key for proper die use and operation, the bullet seating die doesn't get as dirty as the sizing die but still needs maintenance. The same solvents and lubes you use on your firearms can be used on your dies as well.
Being the first in line in the reloading process the sizing die is the dirtiest, it will need to be disassembled cleaned and inspected, I also like to lightly coat the decapping pin and walls of the die with a light oil. You will find slight amounts of grime along the walls of the die mainly near the neck and shoulder that will need to be cleaned, signs of this will be deformed necks or shoulders, scratches on case and tight cases in die. On the decapping pin build up can occur behind any tapers like the expander ball which is part of the neck sizing process, also you will find grim on the small pin that pushes the primer out of its pocket.
Bullet seating is the least dirty process, but as noted above still needs to be disassembled cleaned and inspected. Since most brass being reloaded has been sized, cleaned, polished, trimmed and chamfered, the brass is clean. Most issues in the bullet seating die are cause by dirt and dust from other sources and loose powder on the neck of the case from being filled. Mainly check around the walls of the die and around the bullet seating system, clean and lightly lube as noted above for the sizing die.
Cleaning can be as simple as running a solvent coated patch through the die body followed by a dry patch, I like to use a 410 shotgun brush with some solvent to get the walls clean, it also helps get into areas maybe a patch can't reach. Other cleaning processes used are sandblasting the outside of the die body, this helps with keeping the rust to a minimum when you reload in areas with high humidity. The newest thing to clean dies with are the Ultrasonic Cleaners, they use a warm liquid bath and high frequency pulses to release dirt and grime off parts. Most reloading component companies are now making ultrasonic cleaners for brass prep, and can also be iused on other items as well such as dies.
Want to watch a video about cleaning your dies: Here's A link to my YouTube video showing just that: Rex's Shooting and Reloading Blog Video on Die Cleaning
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog, this was just a general overview on the cleaning and maintenance of reloading dies, you will more than likely come across different style dies than shown above, which will have there own needs in regards to cleaning and maintenance.
